Category Archives: International Travel

MapChick Maps: Don’t be a literal mapless traveler on Isla Mujeres!

I went on an unintentional hiatus with this blog right before taking two especially amazing tropical vacations in 2015, including one to the Mexican island of Isla Mujeres (literally “women island”). As a result, I’ve posted little to nothing about either trip, which is a shame as both were wonderful. They also took a lot of planning to make them so great – especially Isla Mujeres.  I couldn’t seem to find any good maps or travel guides to help me out – everything I found was either quite outdated, or was a small part of a much larger travel guide for the Yucatán Peninsula. I had started to just print off whatever decent-looking maps I found on tourism websites online. Then, days before we left, I stumbled across the MapChick set of maps/travel guides for Isla Mujeres. They sounded like exactly what I needed, and I liked that the company is run by a couple who travel frequently to the island, so I took a chance and rush ordered their 4-map set so it would get to us in time! And I am so, so glad I did this, because it made our trip a thousand times easier, and here’s why:

  1. These maps are beautifully illustrated and easy-to-read with clear, large print.
  2. Although the Isla Mujeres maps come in a “4 map set”, you actually get 8 maps divided among 4 brochures!
  3. Each map also functions as a full travel guide, as it has call-out boxes with tips, suggestions, insider info and warnings, and insight, along with showing you where everything is! There is even a suggested self-guided snorkeling tour around the “Secret Beach” which Eric and I tried out and really enjoyed. It added a great deal to our trip!
  4. The set includes a main map that helps you “get to know” the island, while the other maps cover specifics on hotels/rentals, downtown attractions, downtown restaurants, island restaurants, island attractions, and two different self-guided golf cart tours! The golf cart maps were the only ones we never used as we didn’t end up renting a golf cart. It never felt like we were carrying too many maps around as we were able to easily pick and choose the ones we’d like to use at any given moment. The main map also did a great job in getting us acclimated with the entire island.
  5. Considering all that you get and the effort that obviously went into making these, I found the price very reasonable.
  6. There had been a couple of updates since the map set I ordered went to press, so the MapChick team included a handy slip indicating those changes with my order. It was the same size as the folded maps so it was easy to bring along with me as a reminder. I found that to be a very helpful and thoughtful touch that I doubt you will encounter with larger companies.
  7. In addition, if you check the proper box when checking out, you’ll get a great two-sided map of the Cancun airport added to your order, for FREE! (I took this option and was very happy with it!)

If you’re looking for a great map and/or travel guide to Isla Mujeres, I don’t think you can do any better than MapChick. They also carry maps for other areas of the Yucatan Peninsula, and provide helpful information and a digital vacation planner and fish identification guide right on their website! It’s so much fun to browse around. Check it all out at the MapChick website right here.

My Trips: 2014 and Beyond

Wow! The last time I wrote in this blog was in late 2014. I’m looking to get this thing fired up again, so here is a brief update.

2014:
I last posted in fall 2014 after having done quite a bit of business travel that year, including multiple trips to Austin and a lengthy stay in Albuquerque, among other places. I finally got to “visit” Detroit, albeit just through the airport! I will get to you someday soon, Motor City. In August 2014 I traveled to Edina, Minnesota, also for work. In June, I spent a long weekend with my husband Eric in Rehoboth Beach (Delaware) for leisure purposes. I’d been there a few times before and he agreed with me that the popular little beach town (and its surrounding environs) are well worth the visit. Also in June, we camped in Big Meadows (Shenandoah) with my family. September was our annual family beach trip to Murrells Inlet / Garden City, South Carolina.  In October I took a long weekend in a cabin at Shenandoah National Park with Eric at Big Meadows. And of course, that December we traveled home to spend Christmas with family.

2015:
I took one more business trip to Oakland, California (although I had to stay in Richmond/Berkeley … what a drive) and a great night visit to San Francisco, including the Chinatown area. I’d like to see more of that city.

Leisure-wise, in March we took a 10-day Eastern Caribbean cruise that left out of Miami – in the nick of time to avoid a snowstorm – and stopped at St. Kitts & Nevis, Martinique, Dominica (not to be confused with the Dominican Republic), Antigua, and St. Thomas. We also fit in a visit to gorgeous St. John’s as well while we were on St. Thomas, and we did an excursion to the Everglades once in CONUS again.

It was one of the most incredible vacations I’ve ever had. It was hard to imagine how anything could top that near-perfect cruise, but our visit to the island of Isla Mujeres, Mexico in August definitely also had us feeling heavenly. The little island charmed us from the start, and I don’t think we ate a bad or bland meal the entire time we were there. The highlight of the trip (and the whole reason I planned it) was swimming with a pod of whale sharks in the middle of the open sea. What an adventure! It more than made up for some mishaps we ran into just trying to get there from DC!

For family trips, we had a trip to Skyline (Shenandoah) for my dad’s 74th birthday in April, and Eric and I camped with Cat and Rob at Point Lookout State Park in Scotland, Maryland in June. My parents met us up there for the day and we thought it was funny that we were in Scotland, Maryland while our aunt was in Scotland, UK! 🙂 In September we made our annual pilgrimage to the beach house on the “Hammock Coast” of South Carolina where some of us got to meet our sweet baby cousin, Allie, for the first time! Christmas in 2015 was spent with Eric’s family in Corpus Christi and that was a great trip. We also stayed a night in Richmond (VA) in July following a friend’s housewarming party. The drive back wasn’t THAT long, but we were tired and frankly, it was really just an excuse to relax in a hotel and order room service! 🙂

2016: 

This has been a busy year so far and somehow the months have flown by. Day trips have been the name of the game for the most part. I’m really hoping to go camping a time or two this summer, if not several. In July, we have a road trip planned that will last 11 days and show me 5 new states (6 if you count Illinois … I’ve been through both Chicago airports so many jillions of times that I feel strange saying I’ve never been to Illinois at this point! So I usually say I have been there but give a disclaimer). We’re going to start by driving to Chicago, spending a weekend there, then take off on Historic Route 66 (Mother Road dream trip!) and follow that as far as Oklahoma City, then drive to Dallas specifically to stay the night at the Joule hotel and swim in their crazy cantilevered pool. I’m sure we will enjoy lots of other things about Dallas besides that, but ever since I saw that pool I knew I would make a special visit there one day, and here I am. (Never been to Dallas except through the airport several times.) From there we will make our way home with stops in Hot Springs, Arkansas, and Bristol (on the VA side). I have carefully planned everything and picked out certain sites, and at this point, I’m pretty smug about my ability to plan the perfect trip (at least for Eric and I). A road trip of this length and variation is a new one for my planning skills, though, so this is going to be a test to see how I did. I have picked out the sites we both will want to see and planned driving and rest times carefully so I think I am doing good. And, at least I’ve gotten all the hotel booking out of the way! Although this is largely “my” trip, Eric is definitely excited (especially when I told him about some of the very Eric-y things he can expect to visit along the way). At some time in the future, we’ll come back out and drive the rest of Route 66, at least from OKC to LA.

We’ll of course also have family trips this year to the beach, likely to Corpus Christi, and possibly Puerto Rico. And maybe we’ll have a good weekend jaunt or two. I really want to tick off the rest of my unseen states, so cruises to Alaska and Hawaii and random trips in 2017-18 are very strong possibilities! Our next big international trip is supposed to be Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile via Santiago. That one will be another dream come true.

Where you have been lately? Where would you like to go?

Scenes from the Sky

We frequent flyers (or flyers, period) who are window-seat lovers can all agree: There’s nothing like the view of the world from up high. How lucky we are to live in an age when a plane ticket is all that separates us from a bird’s eye view.

Some of my very favorite things seen from 30,000 feet have included the following:

-The Grand Canyon
-The green, green grass of Ireland
-Seeing the shadow of the plane on the cloud carpet below (accompanied by a mini circle of rainbow)
-Seeing other planes whizzing by in the distance (or below you)
-The sun setting on one side of the sky, while the other side is already dark and studded with stars. How beautiful to see the night rushing in.
-Fall leaves changing at their peak – creating a fiery blaze of glorious bright color pops
-Snow covered mountains
-The endless lakes of Minnesota, studding the landscape as far as the eye can see
-Las Vegas rising up out of the desert
-Hoover Dam
-New York City – especially the Statue of Liberty!
-My own apartment building. I fly past it routinely!
-Looking down and seeing nothing but ocean below! (also one of my favorite things about looking out from the top deck of a ship!)
-The landing gear coming down from under the wing as we approach our destination. I have been fortunate enough to sit right behind this area on past flights and for me, it’s quite an interesting thing to watch.
-Looking for the bright blue specks (swimming pools) in people’s backyards (my favorite as a very young child)
-I’m sure there are plenty more I could mention, but my personal favorite … one of which I’ll never tire … is the gorgeous sight of the monuments of the metro DC area. Whether lit up at night or gleaming in full sunlight, seeing that beautiful white marble welcoming me home never, ever gets old. At times I feel like we are so close that I could reach out from my window and touch the Washington Monument, the Capitol, the top of the Pentagon. The gasps of pleasure and delight from first-time visitors to our area as they spy these sights are lots of fun too. City life can contribute to grumpy attitudes for many of us, so it’s refreshing to hear someone greeting DC with anticipation! And the icing on the cake, for me, on a return flight into my home airport is seeing the water of the Potomac so close underneath us that it’s almost a little bit frightening!

How about you?

228 Days to Go!

I just logged into my Norwegian Cruise Lines account to make a payment and saw the big 228 Days to Go! countdown clock! Woo hoo! I can’t wait till our “big” honeymoon. At this point we are planning on a “big” and a “little” honeymoon because without the little I’ll be going back to work the Monday after we get married. No thanks! So we’ll be headed off somewhere for a couple of nights, like a bed and breakfast or something relaxing so we can chill out and enjoy being married 🙂 I’ll take Monday off then hopefully work at home for the rest of the week. We’ll see how that works out. Then less than a week later we’ll be flying off to Miami! I hope we can take a trip to the Everglades before getting on the Norwegian Pearl for another 7-day Western Caribbean cruise. The Pearl is one of NCL’s Jewel class ships and is bigger and a bit fancier than the Spirit. We actually saw the Pearl anchored next to us when we were in Belize last year! This year we have a balcony cabin right at the back of the ship (aft) so we can hear the wake and get a gorgeous unblocked view from our room. (I don’t think the balcony’s all that big for sitting but we’ll probably be out there a fair amount too!) Last year we saw lots of sea life from the sundeck on the Spirit so I’m hoping we’ll get some great views of animals in the distance from our balcony, too. Also, the Pearl has a fabulous thermal spa with a big hot spa pool and heated ceramic loungers and drinks you can sip while you do nothing so one of the very first things we do after boarding will be purchasing spa passes! And our stops this year include:

*Great Stirrup Cay, Bahamas (NCL’s private island), where we plan to hike over to the lighthouse and the old helicopter pad and see the ruins left over from the days when it was a U.S. military installation. Hopefully we will also have plenty of time for snorkeling.

*Grand Cayman – This British territory is supposed to have some great snorkeling as well, especially with a large stingray population. This one will require some research.

*Ocho Rios, Jamaica – I think hiking the water fall here is a must!

*Our last stop is a return to Cozumel, Mexico which we also visited last year and loved. Cozumel is GREAT especially the little neighborhoods on the inside. It’s a nice place to just walk around once you get past the touristy areas (not that those aren’t a lot of fun – they are!). We loved cooking with Josefina in her home last year but this year I think we’ll just head to Money Bar (or another private beach bar) and do lots of snorkeling. That’s one thing I wish we did a bit more of last year, snorkel (although we did do some in the incredible reefs off Roatan).

WE CAN’T WAIT!

Costa Maya, Mexico

One of the obviously great things about cruising is that you can (briefly) experience a number of cities all in one vacation. The first stop on my first cruise was the little port of Costa Maya, part of the tiny fishing village of Mahahual (also spelled Majahual) at the southern tip of Quintana Roo state, Mexico. We got up early that morning for breakfast on the upper decks and watched as we approached the shore and the Mexican Navy cleared the ship. As soon as we could, we disembarked in a fast-moving line and stepped out onto the long pier to port. Just like that, we were in Mexico!

The Port of Costa Maya

Costa Maya is a little port. Its main centerpiece is a large pool with a swim-up bar and adjacent mock beach with lounge chairs and trees. All around the perimeter are shops selling every touristy trinket you can imagine. Entering one of these stores means an employee will eagerly follow you around telling about the “best prices” he has to offer. Go back outside and you’ll find stores with more practical items as well as deeply discounted gold and gemstone shops. Drugstores sell all kinds of medicines – Viagra, allergy meds, statins, you name it – found only through prescription in the U.S., here for anyone to buy and at massive discounts. The port has been rebuilt after the village was decimated by Hurricane Dean in 2007, but other signs of devastation remain and can be seen everywhere outside of the confines of the port.

The beach at Costa Maya looked rocky with darker sand and random palapas here and there, as well as remains of those in place prior to the hurricane. Little pools are in place as highly inadequate housing for the poor captive dolphins available for swimming excursions.

The Mexican government is very keen on keeping the area secure from drug violence and cartels that reign elsewhere and have deeply affected tourism for many other parts of the country. It is common for vehicles to be stopped at checkpoints entering and exiting the region by the Mexican military and searches conducted. We saw one such search ourselves as we returned to port following our excursion, and troops holding enormous machine guns guarded the exterior of the port. I actually felt safer seeing this. With that said, this doesn’t seem to be a particularly high-crime area of Quintana Roo, but use your common sense as you would with any tourist destination.

The Road to Chacchoben

A big draw of this area for cruise ship visitors and tourists is the proximity to multiple Mayan ruins, and the Costa Maya port even features a giant replica pyramid fountain. After much hemming and hawing I decided on Chacchoben as the ruins we’d visit and we booked a tour with The Native Choice tour company. I am so glad we did. We walked past the main area of the port to a tour bus area and rode comfortably into Mahahual to the Native Choice offices, where we paid cash for the tour and piled into a van with several other Norwegian Spirit cruisers. The ride out to Chacchoben was roughly an hour long. We were given bottled water and our tour guide, a really nice older gentleman (whose name completely escapes me!) who’s native to this area, routinely turned around in the passenger seat to point things out and give us information. The area we drove through was very rural, though it’s hard for me to tell if that’s its general nature or simply that what’s there was demolished by the hurricane. We saw many remains of buildings off the road and very little other vehicle traffic. The only semblance of a traffic jam was a necessary stop to allow a cowboy to finish herding his longhorn cattle across the road. “Look everyone, a real Mexican cowboy!” said our good-humored guide, twisting around in his seat with eyebrows raised.

We passed a fruit stand where the van stopped and our guide purchased two bags of fresh pineapple for the group; one bag plain and one sprinkled with chili powder. I ate the chili variety and was in heaven with the juicy, melt-in-your-mouth fruit and slight spike of heat. Nearby, young schoolgirls in uniform skipped down a dirt road, books in hand.

On Sacred Ground

Finally we came to the entrance to the ruins, not far from Chetumal, the state capital. There was a small souvenir and snack shop at the entrance to the jungle trail. After taking a bathroom and refreshment break, we started onto the dirt path to the temples. It was very hot but there were many trees to provide shade. I was thankful for my sneakers, capri workout pants and wide-brimmed floppy hat. In no time at all, we reached the first of the restored Mayan temples, which we’d already seen towering above the trees. It was magnificent to see up close. It was adjacent to another ruin that hadn’t been unearthed yet, but you could see the bricks spilling out of it.

Our guide was extremely knowledgeable. He gave us all kinds of history, lore, trivia, you name it. He was obviously well-versed in the history, culture, and flora and fauna of the surrounding jungles. (We did not meet with any jungle animals save a couple of small jumping spiders.) Listening to our guide speak was fascinating. He also had no problem leaving us time to look around each ruin on our own, and offered to take pictures for multiple people. There were many things to see. We couldn’t climb all the way up most of the temples, but some had a mid-way point marked by a white string at which we could stop and pose for the photos. Following our lengthy tour, we hiked back to the entry point where we were given time for a rest stop and any purchases, and then it was back in the van and off down the road for lunch and a refreshing swim!

The Lake of the Seven Colors (Bacalar Lagoon)

What a peaceful, quiet place for our tour to end. After a rickety and bouncy ride through windy dirt roads in the jungle, we arrived at a small, clean, new resort overlooking many sparkling shades of blue. This was the Lake of the Seven Colors, aptly named for its shimmering hues. Here we entered a restaurant where we found our lunch was ready for us. We also had our choice of two drinks as part of the tour. I ordered a margarita and a pina colada and both were delicious, yet weakly made. As I was looking to stay hydrated in the heat, I didn’t mind. The food was warming and incredible – warm tortillas, a pyramid of rice, refried beans with tortilla chips, sliced, cooked carrots, and a pile of shredded chicken. We ate our meal overlooking the water and feeling the breeze through the open window. We were joined by another couple about our age from Chicago, Sarah and Josh, whom we’d continue to run into and hang out with throughout the cruise.

Following our meal, we headed out to a cabana overlooking the water. Sarah and Josh chose to kayak while Eric and I dropped right into the lagoon, which had the temperature of bath water. The colors of the sky and sea matched as we floated around. We examined the lagoon’s rocky bottom for any sign of life, but only saw a few mucky plants waving among the limestone. After a while, we lay back on the chaise lounges of the cabana to dry off and relax. Our guide helped people into their kayaks, spoke with some children, and kept track of time for us. He wasn’t just a tour guide, he was a sweetheart!

The Village of Mahahual

After leaving Bacalar, our guide found we still had time available for a quick trip through Mahahual. Our driver took us all around the village where we saw much evidence of the hurricane’s devastation. The remains of buildings stood in huge empty wide fields with trash scattered about. Little shops were open here and there, with people busily working and greeting one another. We also passed the local school. The ocean gleamed in the distance. I saw a donkey ambling around. Eric was able to see inside one shop where a cat sat upright, both front paws on the counter, right next to the shopkeeper who held the same pose! (Which one is really running the store?)

I could not have been happier with our first day in Mexico. I highly recommend The Native Choice tours. Everyone we met was sweet, patient and accommodating. Our guide was excellent at keeping our group on track and on time. Our tour was called Chacchoben Extreme Tour, which includes the visit to the lagoon. There are also many other tours of this area available. I’d love to come back and take another!

Here are a few of the many pictures from this portion of our trip.

Waiting patiently for cattle to cross.

Here we are at the foot of one of the Chacchoben temples.

Our tableside view of the lagoon and tiny resort at Bacalar

Our delightful lunch!

If you go: Bring a beach towel, change of clothes, good walking shoes, hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, water shoes (such as Speedo) or Tevas for the rocky lagoon bottom, any extra water, camera (keeping in mind that the lagoon is rather foggy for underwater pictures), and cash (USD is fine) – for souvenirs as well as tips for your hard-working tour guide and driver!

“All we need is just a little patience”

I received word from NCL that they have cancelled a number of cruises to the Mediterranean region due to “continued political unrest”, which includes our planned 10-day stint on the Norwegian Jade. The cruise would have left from Rome and ventured to a couple of ports in Greece, a port in Turkey, and two wonderful days in Alexandria, Egypt. I had also planned to take an escorted private flight from Alexandria to Cairo/Luxor, which was something offered by NCL as part of a fabulous overnight tour. Now I’m left with three options and the first two involve transferring the booking to another cruise. The third? Do nothing and just have the deposit refunded. We plan to take the money back and see what we feel like doing with it in the future. On the one hand, I’m really excited to plan another vacation. On the other hand … booooo, I wanted my Mediterranean cruise! Now I can’t help but paw through numerous travel brochures looking for other exotic trips – a nicely discounted repositioning cruise that leaves from Dubai and ends up in Rome has really got me salivating – but I understand Eric’s viewpoint, to just wait and see. Maybe as we get closer, we can take the same trip either later on, or on a different cruise line. (We really can’t wait too much past February – the heat in Egypt will not be bearable.) I have all kinds of travel dreams, but some will probably have to wait till I am retired (hi, Antarctica!) much to my great consternation. I have the worst case of wanderlust, I swear. I try to be patient, but it’s hard.

On a separate note about the cruise, I noticed NCL did NOT cancel cruises to that same region that take place this fall. So, I suspect the real reason for the cancellations is that since people have become more skittish about traveling to Egypt, the staterooms NCL would expect to have booked by now on the Jade remain empty. It’s really too bad. The travel advisory to Egypt has been lifted by the Department of State, and when it was in place, NCL simply docked at Istanbul instead.

I hit the gym last night and tore up that elliptical. I was mad about something earlier so it was good to release that energy … also good because I slipped and ordered two Domino’s pizzas Monday, and then ate a McDonald’s value meal on the way to the office today. I was in a rush and disobeyed my trainer’s instructions for my diet. Groaaaaan. One of the funny things about this whole gym deal is it’s pushing me to finally join the 21st century and buy an iPod. I’m thinking I’ll get a little Shuffle and then dressing it in these Mix Monsters cases. Currently I just read a fitness magazine or watch something on TV while I use the elliptical. The other funny thing is that I’m considering going to the gym in the early morning rather than in the evening after work. That way I can spend more time with Eric, who goes to bed around 9:30 or 10 PM now!

Looking forward to the weekend …

Baby’s First Cruise

I have never been on an overnight cruise, but I’m about to try one out this coming March-April. Eric and I will be on a Western Caribbean 7-day cruise on the Norwegian Spirit. This was kind of a rough year financially, so I’m proud that we saved up the money to do this. I’m not very good at saving, so now I feel inspired to save for other things I/we want – namely, a home down payment that we hope to put to good use in 5 (or more) years. If we dig this cruise, we just may become one of “those couples” that cruises every single year! After all, there are some rather inexpensive ones out there. Some leave right from our local port of Baltimore, and others are simple weekend cruises that will allow you a chance to “get away from it all” without taking any leave or spending too much.

Here are our ports for this cruise:

Origin: New Orleans

Gimme gimme gimme that New Orleans soul. I haven’t been there since my first stay of little over a week (June 2007) when I added it to my list of cities that will never leave my heart! The food and drink are to die for and there’s no shortage of things to do and see. Just thinkin’ about some jambalaya and a mojito at Pat O’Brien’s makes my mouth water. I can’t wait to introduce Eric to all of this. We plan to stay the night before we leave port so that we have some time to enjoy ourselves. If you’re looking for a great city to spend a long weekend in, or even just a weekend, get thee to the Crescent City!

Costa Maya, Mexico

Everything I’ve read indicates this is a smaller port, in Quintana Roo state. There are many Mayan ruins to explore here. We have an excursion to the Chacchoben Mayan ruins with The Native Choice.

Belize City

Here we have a cave tubing excursion planned with cave-tubing.com which came highly recommended by many experienced travelers on the Cruise Critic boards.

Roatan, Honduras

Roatan is the largest of Honduras’ Bay Islands. Often touted as an excellent spot for snorkeling and scuba diving, it is home to Barefoot Divers which offers shallow water beginners’ lessons. I would love to learn to scuba – my sister is an accomplished certified diver – and so would Eric, so we are considering booking lessons with them. We may choose to learn scuba in Cozumel instead.

Cozumel, Mexico

This is one city that I’d heard much about over the years and is famous for many things. We are considering a day trip to Xcaret, an ecological park, or a catamaran tour out into the ocean where we can snorkel and just relax on the beach before heading back toward the U.S. Scuba diving beginner lessons are cheaper here, but only go to 25 feet.

One thing I haven’t considered is whether or not I need to get pesos, etc. out at the airport, or if most of the businesses in these touristy ports will take USD. Another question I’ll need to answer is whether or not one can access public beaches at these ports should we feel like swimming following our non-beach excursions. As you can see, I’m completely ignorant when it comes to cruises, but doing the research is a lot of fun.

Have you been to any of these ports or even on this same cruise? Do you have any tips for a first-time cruiser like me?

A Brief Stay in Luxembourg

One of the few downsides to traveling is that I spend many days back home daydreaming that I am in those places I’ve long since left behind, such as … Luxembourg! Yes, Luxembourg, that tiny nation nestled between Belgium, France, and Germany. It charmed me in a way I was not expecting. Now I wish I could board my private jet, a la Doris Buffett, at any time I needed a little peace and quiet. I would zip off to spend a long weekend writing in the countryside of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. Here’s what I found there on my first visit, which was the second stop on a road trip I took from the Netherlands a little more than a year ago.

Luxembourg’s citizens are very well educated; their literacy rate is at 100 percent. The three official languages of Luxembourg are German, French, and the native language, Luxembourgish – and school children are raised to be fluent in all three languages. The country is filled with family-owned farms, wineries, and ancient castles and forts. It is the home of light, refreshing beer Bofferding. (I found a Bofferding glass abandoned in the street that I washed and took home!) Luxembourg enjoys a very stable economy; in fact, as of 2009, it was the richest country in the world (using Gross Domestic Product (GDP) per capita data). (This Wikipedia page cites the International Monetary Fund and the World Bank, both of which put Luxembourg at #1 for 2009. The CIA World Factbook placed Luxembourg at #3 behind Lichtenstein and Qatar, but used estimates from various years for each nation.)

We arrived in Luxembourg City from Brussels and headed through the bumpy roads and narrow streets. I noticed that we appeared to be in some sort of valley with mountains, forests, and castles rising on all sides. We drove around and around until we reached our hostel, which was large and sparkling clean. Our hostel stood in the shadow of a tall train bridge. To get to the city proper, we had to climb a very steep hill next to the bridge. How my friend did this in flats, I’m not so sure. It was worth it … just look at these gorgeous views. You can see why the national motto is: “Mir welle bleiwe wat mir sinn” (“We want to remain how we are”) … the buildings all retain their original beauty.

View of the valley from a pedestrian bridge. Photo by Leigh Lenis.

View of the valley from a pedestrian bridge. Photo by Leigh Lenis.

Here is the bridge that went over our hostel! Photo by Leigh Lenis.

Sadly, the ancient fortress we could see looming above the valley is only available for underground tours during the summertime. It was first built in the 900s!

This is Bock Rock, part of "The Gibraltar of the North", whose casemates (underground tunnels) stretch 24 miles or more under the city.

I believe this preserved sculpture of St. Michael has been at St. Michael's Church at least since the 1600s. The colors of Luxembourg's flag appear beneath.

Luxembourg’s head of state is Grand Duke Henri Albert Gabriel Félix Marie Guillaume, who resides in the Grand Ducal Palace with his wife and family. The heir apparent to the crown is his eldest son Guillaume, who is about my age (29). And according to the tabloid OK!, younger brother Felix is one of the “near-perfect princes still up for grabs”! Hopefully he enjoys a more private, paparazzi-free life than Prince William and Kate Middleton currently do.

I chuckled when I saw this page at the supermarket ogling unattached royals! Click to enlarge!

The palace is lovely and we could walk so close to it that I probably could’ve leaned over and touched it! It was rainy and cold and as we walked by, the Grand Duke himself saw us shivering and invited us inside, where we had tea with him and his wife, the Grand Duchess Maria Teresa … Oops, there goes my imagination again!

A royal guard marches in front of the Grand Ducal Palace. Photo by Leigh Lenis.

The city was quiet on this rainy, chilly weekday. We ventured across a large square where there were several bistros and bars and more people. Dinner was at Bananas bar, which was adjacent to another Chi-Chi’s restaurant! You’ll recall I saw one in Belgium too! The bar was decked out in awesome old signs and ads. I had the Taz LuxemBurger (“Does this place look like Hamburg ???” asked the menu) with Arrabia’taz sauce (a play on the Italian Arrabbiata sauce – garlic, tomatoes, and chili pepper) and it was exactly the kind of warm filling meal I wanted. Then we spent the rest of the night drinking Bofferding!

Bananas Bar in Luxembourg! Photo by Leigh Lenis.

On our way out we stopped to get gas, and suddenly heard a siren. The police car that sped by was a BMW with neon orange markings! Here’s a user-submitted picture at Wikimedia Commons of a similar one. Man, think how unsuccessful all those speed traps would be on I-81 with these guys trying to hide in the bushes.

We left Luxembourg after a filling hostel breakfast with some really delicious baked bread. We listened to a free 2-CD set the hostel offered, which had pop, metal, and hip-hop tracks by various Luxembourgian artists. I loved it! We didn’t love the roads though. Leigh’s GPS led us through the countryside on our way to Koln (Cologne), Germany, where we seemed to forever be stuck on roads that looked like THIS:

Meanwhile, every other driver whizzed right past us about 80 mph. No joke.

Poor Leigh was not a fan! As we found ourselves traveling through an extremely rural area full of farmland and wind turbines, Leigh became concerned that the GPS had lead us astray. We pulled over in the first small village we found, but there was nobody around! We made it to Germany, but not until more hours on the road than we’d bargained for!

It’s true there wasn’t a whole lot to do in the city. This is not a tourist mecca, but it has many wonderful things to offer and is a true place of beauty. Things I’d like to see on my next relaxing visit to Luxembourg include the Valley of the Seven Castles, the wineries, and of course, a tour of the casemates! Visit in the summer to get the most out of your stay.

A Brief Stay in Brussels

While visiting friends in the Netherlands last November (my second trip there, or third if you want to get technical), we decided to hit the road for a brief tour of three neighboring countries. The first of these was Belgium. We headed straight for Brussels. We would be there for just two days and one night. So, from that point of view, here are the things I think you should absolutely make a point to see if you, too, have just a little time in this gorgeous city.

Entering the Kingdom of Belgium in Leigh’s Clio, I noticed signs in both French and Dutch. The three official languages in Belgium are Dutch (often called Flemish in Belgium, and considered a Dutch variant), French, and German, which is prevalent in a smaller area of the country. Many other languages are used in different parts of Belgium, too. I noticed the sugar packets and napkins in one restaurant had words on them in five languages, whereas a typical street sign in the city displayed both French and Dutch. As we entered and exited Belgium, it was more common to see one language or the other on street and highway signs. You can read a little bit more about some of these languages, and view a map of the country at the BBC’s Languages Across Europe page on Belgium.

We checked in to the Hotel van Belle, which was a good deal and not too far a walk from the city’s main attractions. Our room had a big bathroom with packets (not bottles) of body wash and shampoo. Three twin beds filled the somewhat cramped main room and a very small TV sat on top of the dresser, but we couldn’t have cared less about that. If you are looking for a less expensive hotel or hostel in a foreign city, I recommend you just keep security, cleanliness, and location in mind, in that order. You’ll save yourself a boatload of dough, and chances are you won’t even miss the “extras.” After all, you’re not planning on staying in your hotel room the whole time, are you? You may also want to research if the hotel or hostel offers any meals. What the Hotel van Belle lacked in luxurious guest rooms, it more than made up for with comfy, nicely decorated lounges and a huge free breakfast buffet. As I’ve found that most morning meals in this area of Europe are primarily bread and coffee, sometimes with meat or cheese slices, I was overjoyed to see eggs, bacon, cereal, and sausage patties included. And true to form with all of the Belgian chocolate we sampled, even the hot chocolate out of the machine was very rich. I would recommend this hotel any time for someone looking for a comfortable night’s stay.

Our room at Hotel van Belle. Another twin bed (out of frame) is to the right.

Brussels is well-revered abroad for many things, and it’s my humble opinion that you should make a point to sample all of them.

Belgian lace shops line the streets. Delicate shawls, bookmarks, and wall hangings are made in the back of each shop. I have a Belgian bookmark, but of course I can’t find it. It’s no doubt stuck in the middle of any one of thousands of books jammed in my shelves. So, I’ll provide you with this link to examples of Belgian lace at the Manufacture Belge de Dentelles instead.

Belgian waffles are carried around in your hands and can be eaten with rich toppings like chocolate syrup, Nutella, and strawberries. The Waffle Shop provides a fork with a serrated tine so that you can easily cut and eat your waffle while walking around.

Leigh, me, and Eric showing off our waffles!

The famous Belgian beer absolutely should be tasted by any beer fan who visits this city! Some restaurants offer “tasting specials” where several varieties can be sampled for a flat rate. We ate our dinner at a restaurant called Drug Opera where we drank something called Kwak. It comes in a specialty glass in a wooden holder, and makes a “quack” noise when the beer gets to a certain level and passes from the bottom to the mouth of the glass.

Kwak, a fine beer in a curious holder.

(Drug Opera offered the French sandwich Croque Monsieur, so I ordered one of those. Yes, I ordered in French.)

And, of course, Belgian chocolates! They are every bit as good as you can imagine. They are handmade in the boutiques, most of which include towering chocolate fountains in the windows. They are kept on display in refrigerated glass cases. They are so rich with butter and cream that they spoil in a couple of days if left uneaten (which I seriously doubt happens often). Trays of complimentary samples can be found in most boutiques. Pre-packaged chocolates, such as dark chocolate truffles, are also available for your flight home.

Chocopolis is one well-known store. Photo by Leigh Lenis.

Belgian-style frites … French fries, that is … are fairly well-known. I have eaten them often while in Amsterdam. They come in cones, making it easy for you to top them with condiments such as curried ketchup or mayonnaise. I didn’t eat any here, but it’s something to keep in mind if you would like to take a fast food tour of Brussels!

Speaking of food – we also saw a rare Chi-Chi’s Mexican restaurant in town! Chi-Chi’s was once a very popular Mexican restaurant chain in America. It filed bankruptcy and shut down following an E. Coli outbreak at a Pennsylvania franchise. (This left many abandoned Chi-Chi’s buildings dotting the landscape … check out the blog Creepy Abandoned Chi-Chis!) Chi-Chi’s still exists overseas, and as a brand of packaged foods in the U.S. We also saw a Chi-Chi’s in Luxembourg City. I would’ve loved to eat at Chi-Chi’s for the first time in many years, but with so little time to visit these countries I did not want to eat any meals that were not as reflective of the surrounding culture as possible.

I was also completely surprised to see a corner grocery store called Delhaize with the easily recognizable American Food Lion logo on the sign! I pointed it out to Eric, who worked at the Blacksburg Food Lion for several years, and he remembered that Food Lion’s parent company is Delhaize. It turns out it was founded in Belgium. We took a picture of it to send to an old coworker of his, but sadly, it was accidentally deleted 😦

What is this French fry doing? And why is he so happy about it?

If you are wondering what the fry shop sign above is all about – maybe you’re not even sure what you are looking at – here’s the explanation: Mannekin Pis!

The famous Mannequin Pis. Photo by Eric Mercado

He’s the highly treasured statue of a little boy urinating. He is usually covered up with a costume of some sort (Santa Claus for Christmas, etc.), but we caught him on a rare day that he was not. I’m kind of sad we didn’t get to see him decked out for the holidays, but on the other hand, we can say we saw him in his original form! He has been in Brussels since the 1600s, although he’s been kidnapped a few times. Imitations of this statue can be found in many other places. I was surprised to see how small he is up close. When Leigh described it to me, I somehow had an image of a statue bigger and taller than we are, yet he’s only about a foot high.

Eric and I hoping to bring home some good luck with us from Brussels! Photo by Leigh Lenis.

Not far from Manneken Pis is this statue of Everard ‘t Serclaes, who successfully drove the invading Flemish count from the city in the 14th century. He was later assassinated. It is said that visitors should touch this statue for good luck. I have to say my luck has been quite nice since I did this!

The square of the city is called Grand Place and has a rich history. It is one of those rare manmade places that is so beautiful that you may be struck dumb when you see it. I certainly was. The architecture literally took my breath away, and of course my speech for a good few minutes – a rare event, if I do say so myself.

This is the beautiful Brussels town hall at Grand Place. Photo by Leigh Lenis.

Look at the detail on this little St. Michael, over 300 feet above our heads on the spire of the town hall. Photo by Leigh Lenis.

Flower markets in the foreground of another stunning Grand Place building.

Those are my recommendations for Brussels. Have you been to Brussels or any other part of Belgium? If so, what are your stories and suggestions?

Young in Dublin – Day 4

It was another overcast day in Dublin, and rainy at times. We woke up, ate breakfast, and bumbled around outside. I was excited to see the Dublin Writers Museum that day. Since I still lived in Blacksburg, I couldn’t wait to tell one of my favorite English professors all about it. Once inside the museum, you could don headphones and a cassette player and take an audio-guided tour of the rooms. Available for viewing were original possessions of, and other artifacts related to, famous Irish authors and poets like James Joyce, W.B. Yeats, Oscar Wilde, and George Bernard Shaw (to name just a few). Taking the audio tour was a fun way to learn more about the history behind the artifacts. In fact, even Crystal, who hadn’t been expecting to like the museum all that much, later said she had a good time and really enjoyed the audio tour. I’m thinking I will look into available audio tours the next time I visit an art museum – I might stay longer than just a couple of hours that way. 🙂

Dublin Writers Museum is fairly small. It's located to the left of this cathedral.

The highlight of the evening was coming up fast … the Guinness Storehouse museum at St. James’s Gate! I was so excited it was hard for me to take our afternoon nap. With all the clubbing we’d been doing, none of us had gotten anything resembling a full night’s sleep the entire time, so we usually found ourselves crashing for roughly an hour every afternoon. Every time I closed my eyes, I could see pints of Guinness dancing … needless to say, I’m a fan.

We set out to get to St James’s Gate. It was raining, but the map in my big Frommer’s guide showed that it was only a mile or so down the street from our hostel. I assured my travel sidekicks of the same. Well, we walked, and walked … and finally came to an enormous brick wall with no entrance or sign in sight. We kept following the brick wall, feeling rather like peasants skulking around a castle fortress. We couldn’t even see what was over this towering wall, but it was clear that this was St. James’s Gate. So we kept walking … and walking .. and walking … soon we passed a giant Guinness logo, but there was still no conceivable way to get past the towering brick. My friends began grumbling as it became clear that Frommer’s was right … the brewery WAS just a mile or so away from our hostel … but the entrance definitely wasn’t!

I can’t tell you how long it took us to get all the way around that brick wall, but I believe it was at least another couple of miles. From time to time we would see a gate coming up and get excited that we were finally there, only to be disappointed as it proved to be a service entrance only which was most definitely barricaded against the rest of the world. Yet, I have to say the few small glimpses we viewed of the approximately 64 acres of brewery grounds showed quite the operation. Security was everywhere, carefully guarding every visible area (and, I’m sure, every invisible area too). In fact, at times I couldn’t help but be reminded of a military base.

The site does have a very impressive history. According to this Wikipedia page, St. James’s Gate was the Western entrance to the city during the Middle Ages. It later became a series of breweries, all of which could not have turned out anything like the magnificent Guinness we enjoy today. In 1759, Arthur Guinness signed a 9,000 year lease on the property, and Guinness has been brewed there ever since. Wait, did I say 9,000 year lease? I certainly did! It’s safe to say the Guinness operations aren’t going anywhere.

The Storehouse itself is simply a museum located inside an older building that isn’t used for proper operations anymore. Unless something has changed since we were there (November 2006), visitors are not permitted to view the actual brewing of Guinness or enter the “real” factory. They are, however, treated to a grand museum tour complete with a history of the brewery, Arthur Guinness and family (which still owns over 50 percent of the company today), and information on the four main ingredients – yeast, hops, water, and roasted barley. We saw a big crate of roasted barley with invitations for visitors to sample it, which I did. It was very tasty and crunchy and would make a good snack. I kid you not. I think my friends disagreed with me on that one.

At the end of the tour, we went to the Gravity Bar at the top of the storehouse. The Gravity Bar has a 360-degree view of Dublin and a lounge-like atmosphere. We handed the tokens we’d been given to the bartender, who snapped the plastic rings off the bottom and gave us drinks in return. (Visitors have a choice between a pint of Guinness and a non-alcoholic beverage.) We got to keep our tokens, which look like large plastic pebbles and have a drop of Guinness preserved on the inside. I think I should note that Beth, Leigh, and Crystal are not beer fans, whereas I adore beer and Guinness especially. Crystal ordered a Sprite, but Leigh and Beth went ahead and got Guinness. Beth made a horrible face after tasting hers, and so clearly, I had no choice but to finish it for her. Leigh bravely drained hers. I full enjoyed the luscious creamy taste of my pint!

Toasting a successful trip at Gravity Bar!

We went back to the hostel and talked to two of the hostel employees about things we had seen. They approved of many of our choices, but were appalled that we had been eating Abrakebabra. They also wrinkled their noses at Copper Face Jacks. One of them even said, “No self-respecting Irishman would go to Copper Face Jacks!” Ouch. They recommended a couple of other places for us to go out to that night. We ambled around and passed a place called Voodoo where I saw a huge line of people waiting to see The Killers, a famous American rock band. Their second album had just come out and I couldn’t believe we had no idea they were playing in Dublin. Eh! We wound up at Ri-Ra again and this time it was definitely more crowded. We had a blast. We came back for just a couple of hours of sleep before catching our flights back home. A pack of British kids had just checked in to our room and they stayed up a good deal of the night babbling back and forth and making fun of one of their friends who was snoring. I couldn’t sleep (even after I asked them to shut it) and so I wandered downstairs and chatted with a hostel employee for a bit.

Spotted on a utility van on the way to the airport! Photo by Crystal Smith.

We had to get up early the next morning. I mean, I remember it as early but I have no idea if it actually was. Leigh flew back to the Netherlands, of course. The rest of us had quite the wait to get through security to our gate. All I can say is that the security people at Dublin International are so not playing around. I laughed when they massaged my feet to check for explosives because it tickled. We flew on Lufthansa Airlines to Frankfurt. I saw some U.S. military families being reunited at the airport which was quite moving.

Saying goodbye with Leigh at Dublin International.

Writing these entries has made me realize we missed out on a lot of great pubs that we saw, such as The Brazen Head, which is said to be the oldest pub in Dublin. But none of us were particularly well-off at that point, and we all understood that sacrifices are often necessary when traveling. Traveling on a budget means choosing what you are willing to spend the most money on, and having every single meal at a pub just wasn’t in the cards for us. We definitely did enjoy some of the famed watering holes, and I don’t regret having only a few days to enjoy the city. Some days are better than no days, my friends.

Would I do it again? In a heartbeat.

Goodbye, Ireland! Photo by Crystal Smith.